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PM 1911 by Hoborginc PM 1911 by Hoborginc
The is a fairly detailed M1911 papercraft, conisting of 8 pages for a complete model.

There are two variants included: Classic and Modernized. You are welcome to mix and match the features.

Download Link (Both versions w/instructions, PNG, Mediafire)

PDF Classic Version(w/ instructions, PDF, st.ash)
PDF Modernized Version(w/ instructions, PDF, st.ash)

FAQ:

Q: What are those extra panels at the bottom of the slide? How do I build the grooves?
A: Here's an illustration.. And here are the valley folds.

Q: How do I fold the guiderails?
A: Like this. Note that the narrowest face folds flat onto the widest face, forming a "shelf." The rest of it is a box.

Q: How do I build the rail base on the modernized version?
A: Look at its front and back faces. They should provide an idea of how everything else is folded. Here's a picture.

Q: What are the "inner sections" of the slide (pg.2) and where do they go?
A: If the "bottom of slide" is a u-shaped half-tube, its "inner sections" are attached inside it, to the larger hatched areas. Their job is to keep the spring front cap and the barrel apart. Here's a photo. Although covered by the bushing, they are partially visible from the front.
Add a Comment:
 
:iconwadcutter9:
WadCutter9 Featured By Owner Mar 3, 2015  Hobbyist General Artist
At one time I thought I saw a beautiful model of this gun but it came in a box that was also made from card stock. Would you and anyone know where the model can be found? Thank youwc
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Mar 7, 2015
Perhaps you're thinking of heavyoxide's build?
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:iconx98clkc322x:
x98clkc322x Featured By Owner Mar 23, 2015
wow heavyoxide modifided the gun was beauty...but how to make like that?and hoborginc...can make some more inside details?everything is more like real gun?and i hope the trigger can be push...
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:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Mar 23, 2015
Here's his process. Looks like he incorporated some wooden and/or cardboard parts fit inside the paper ones, and applied a good coat of paint on top.

Of course, it's possible to make a 1911 with more detailed parts, and some people have made individual models (like tacome1942) with realistic internals and functionality. My model is very much simplified, though.

I have no idea when I'll get a chance to get back to this model and make an improved iteration, though.
Reply
:iconherbetjferreira:
HerbetJFerreira Featured By Owner Feb 6, 2015  Student Photographer
has video teaching how to ride?
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:iconherbetjferreira:
HerbetJFerreira Featured By Owner Feb 6, 2015  Student Photographer
has video teaching how to ride?
Reply
:icon69xl:
69XL Featured By Owner Dec 20, 2014
If I made the block side shorter will I have problems further down with the operation
of the slide and parts ?  or just leave it alone  ?  Happy Holidays 
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Dec 20, 2014
Make it shorter, but move the "barrel bottom (the piece with a hole for the takedown pin)" forward on the barrel by the same amount. That should cancel out any issues. Yes, the barrel won't protrude from the front as much, but it shouldn't get stuck in the slide either.
Reply
:icon69xl:
69XL Featured By Owner Dec 18, 2014
Hi 
 Well scince I fininished the MG , I thought Id do a Pistol.

Question !  when I assemble the "slide" ,  the [block slide] , is protruding past the "ejector" of the slide.
and the "barrel" will not cover the entire "ejector" hole in the [slide] some of the [block side] is showing
into the ejector hole .
.
Is that normal ?
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Dec 19, 2014
Well, I identified the root cause: initial blueprints of the model were only made for the side, back, and front views, none of which took into account the curve at the top of the ejection port.
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Dec 19, 2014
Comparing the actual patterns, you're right. It's not intentional, but that's the way it turns out. I can't believe I didn't notice that over the course of multiple builds. But yes, it's an inherent problem. Thanks for bringing it to my attention.
Reply
:iconcronos95:
Cronos95 Featured By Owner Nov 28, 2014  Hobbyist General Artist
im sorry, i have a question! i do this amazing papercraft and just finshed the slide...or nearly. because i dont have any clue where the inside block of slide and the inner section parts belong to! can you help me, yeha, probably tha is a dumb question, but i have aboslutely no idea!

thank you!
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Nov 28, 2014
The inner sections go inside the front of the slide, as seen in <a wytiwyg="1" href="hoborginc.deviantart.com/art/P…>this photo. They're partially visible under the bushing cap from the front, but they can only be fully seen from inside.

The inside block is, well, inside the back of the slide. Its curved top fits right into the curved roof of the slide. Of its two ends, the one with the circle is the front, and this is the breech face visible through the ejection port. The end with a circle and an outline around it is the back, partially visible between the rear corners of the slide. Obviously, the circles represent the firing pin.
Note that it's not as tall as the rest of the slide. In fact, its bottom should be high enough to leave just enough space for the slide to cycle without getting stuck on the hammer or the magazine.
Reply
:iconcronos95:
Cronos95 Featured By Owner Nov 29, 2014  Hobbyist General Artist
thank you very much!
Reply
:icontank65612:
tank65612 Featured By Owner Aug 2, 2014
For some reason when i printed out the model, parts on pages 1,2, and 6 have pieces that are cut off. the parts that got cut off are the ejection port rim, rear slide corners, front sight and the front frame floor with the piece to the left, as well as the back of the mag well. how can i print this out so that the pieces fit in the margins?
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Aug 2, 2014
The resolution of the image is larger than the printable area.

What software are you printing with?

If it's Windows Photo Viewer, UNcheck "fit picture to frame" to scale the image down to the actual printable area.

Also, make sure all the pages are printed with the same settings, to ensure that the parts will fit together.
Reply
:icontank65612:
tank65612 Featured By Owner Aug 2, 2014
i printed it straight from the pdf file on my internet browser. Should i uncheck the 'fit to page' box?
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Aug 2, 2014
Try it on various settings until the entire image gets printed correctly.
If the long gray slide pieces on Pg.1 (pg.2 of the pdf) are between 18.5 - 18.7 cm long (not counting tabs), and no part of the image goes off the edge, then it's good.

I printed it from Firefox, and it doesn't have an option for sizing but appears to adjust the dimensions correctly by itself.
Internet Explorer has radio buttons for "fit" and "shrink oversized pages," which are both good. The one you want to avoid is "actual size."
Reply
:icontank65612:
tank65612 Featured By Owner Aug 2, 2014
oh maybe it was because i didnt download the .png files.
Reply
:iconbrianfisher15:
brianfisher15 Featured By Owner Aug 1, 2014
someone is selling this file on ebay :(
Reply
:iconheavyoxide:
heavyoxide Featured By Owner Jul 30, 2014  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
I finished my version of your Colt M-1911.  It is posted on my site.  I hope that you approve of it.  Again, thanks for sharing.
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Aug 1, 2014
Great paint job and overall finish. You've definitely taken this model to another level!
Reply
:iconheavyoxide:
heavyoxide Featured By Owner Aug 1, 2014  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
As an add-on, you may use my photos of the finished work to advertize you model.  Thanks again for your work.
Reply
:iconheavyoxide:
heavyoxide Featured By Owner Aug 1, 2014  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
Thanks Hoborginc,  but due to your design, I was able to work with it.  By the way, the dimensions of your work are almost the same size of the government issue M-1911. 
Reply
:iconheavyoxide:
heavyoxide Featured By Owner Jul 20, 2014  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
I have finished your model with some modifications, the build thread is here at Zealots zealot.com/threads/1911-colt-a…   and at papermodelers.  At the moment, I am working on the display case/box for it.  I may make it again but I have the schematics to build all the working pieces and modify it even further.  Thanks for sharing.
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Jul 21, 2014
That's very impressive. Definitely a step up in detail. I'm glad to have contributed to something like that.
Reply
:iconxxlilleskuttxx:
xXLilleSkuttXx Featured By Owner Jul 17, 2014
Where does the "Inside Block of Slide" go?
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Jul 17, 2014
Between the right and left walls. In fact, it's what holds the slide together at the back.
On the image "construction 04" you can see the underside of the inside block. Note that it's not as tall as the side walls, and does not extend below the grooves.

The face with just a circle (representing the firing pin) on it faces forward: it forms the breech face and will be visible through the ejection port.
The face with a circle and a border faces backward: it forms the back of the slide and will be visible between the rear corners.
Reply
:iconxxlilleskuttxx:
xXLilleSkuttXx Featured By Owner Jul 17, 2014
Thanks, but what side is up and what side is down?
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Jul 17, 2014
The white face, with triangular tabs, is a curved face that faces up and matches the curve of the top wall of the slide.

The flat gray face is down.
Reply
:iconxxlilleskuttxx:
xXLilleSkuttXx Featured By Owner Jul 17, 2014
Do i glue it or just leave it there?
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Jul 18, 2014
Of course, it's a vital part of the slide and needs to be secure. Glue it to the right and left walls, then glue the top wall to it and the side walls.
Reply
:iconxxlilleskuttxx:
xXLilleSkuttXx Featured By Owner Jul 18, 2014
Sorry to bother you, but thank you very much!
Reply
:iconheavyoxide:
heavyoxide Featured By Owner Jul 15, 2014  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
I have decided to build you model and have started  a build thread over at papermodelers.com and at zealot.com.  I have modified the build to an extent that it can withstand constant handling.  I did away with some of the intricate folds and have used chip board and some thin wood to help in re-inforcing  the side walls and also strengthening the rail groove.  The gun will be re-colored by hand a black finish and the lettering will be re-lettered by hand.  thank you for sharing in your wondeful works and I hope to do justice to your efforts.
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Jul 16, 2014
All right, that's good. Make any adjustments you need to strengthen it.
Glad you like it.
Reply
:iconert2030:
ert2030 Featured By Owner Apr 19, 2014  Hobbyist General Artist
how the hell do you make the guide rails I cant do it
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Apr 22, 2014
Here's a color-coded guiderail explanation.

(I'm just reposting it out here so other people can also see it)
Reply
:icongamerremark2:
GamerRemark2 Featured By Owner Mar 1, 2014
Could you explain how to make the cylindrical parts like the barrel? Do like use a pencil to roll it first?
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Mar 1, 2014
Yeah, rolling it with a pencil is a good idea. Alternately, you can make bend it at multiple intervals against the table edge. Whatever works, basically.
Reply
:icongamerremark2:
GamerRemark2 Featured By Owner Mar 7, 2014
Thanks for the help and might I ask what type of glue you use?
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Mar 7, 2014
Regular Elmer's glue, though tacky glue is also good.
Reply
:iconadri92239:
adri92239 Featured By Owner Feb 13, 2014  Hobbyist Writer
If i wanted to add a spring to the spring front cap, where would I put it?
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Feb 13, 2014
Theoretically, it would go around the spring guide, and inside the front cap. It would be up to you to find a spring of the correct size, though. Also it would have to be weak enough not to deform the paper.
Reply
:iconadri92239:
adri92239 Featured By Owner Feb 16, 2014  Hobbyist Writer
So based on what I'm picturing, a pen spring would be way too small?
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:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Feb 16, 2014
Yeah. However, a spring can be made from a spiral notebook. It may need to be cut down to size, but it might work.
Reply
:iconadri92239:
adri92239 Featured By Owner Feb 16, 2014  Hobbyist Writer
oh that's a really good idea! Thanks!
Reply
:iconadri92239:
adri92239 Featured By Owner Feb 11, 2014  Hobbyist Writer
where do the "inner sections" go? I can't figure it out :(
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Feb 11, 2014
They go inside the U-shaped part at the front, the "Bottom of Slide." Note how the "bottom of slide" has hatched areas on the inside and outside. The outside hatched areas have a curved part, shaped like the curved part on the side walls. The inside hatched areas are larger and rectangular. The "inner sections" go on those hatched areas.

Their purpose is to keep the barrel aligned in the top of the slide and to keep the spring front cap aligned underneath it.
Reply
:iconadri92239:
adri92239 Featured By Owner Feb 11, 2014  Hobbyist Writer
is there any chance you have a picture? i think i know what you mean, but i'm a visual person

Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Feb 12, 2014
Here's a picture where they're visible, especially from the back. I can't show the front clearly because the bushing is glued in place, but you can see them peeking out from under it.
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