No, it doesn't "work" work, and doesn't return (mostly because a trigger spring would be a pain to make). It just "moves" in the sense that it vaguely approximates its actual shape and range of movement.
Hm... Ever considered adding the loop for the sling? I mean, I have a sling on my own AK rifle prop here: , but it is heavily improvised, and I could not find a belt buckle of the right size, so the front sling loop is a bit disproportionate.
The problem for my own prop was that at first, I didn't think of adding the GP-25 grenade launcher, so I put the loop at the bottom of the front grip. Then, when the grenade launcher came along, I had to remove the loop and make a new one on the side. It does look somewhat ugly, but at least it holds the sling just fine.
That's probably the best option for an AK prop that is built entirely out of junk (as there's not only paper - my prop is an elegant amalgamation of all kinds of cardboard, paper, hard wood, melted glue, plastic and duct tape... and a chopped-up leather belt sling).
Nothing like spending almost every night for 6 months working on this model. and you know what I mean when 1 piece takes like 3 hours to trace , score , cut , fold , and glue ! and 150 more pieces to go ............
Im 98 % done ! But I need to go back to my last post "THE TRIGGER"
It seems when the (selector) is [parallel] to the (reciever top) , the (selector axle) point straight down. right ?. Ok ? .... and the (trigger and disconnector) is underneath the (selector axle). When this is in that position , the trigger cannot be pressed. [kinda in a lock mode].
Moving the (selector) to [AUTO] , the trigger is released from under the (selector axle) and the (disconnector) is still under the (selector axle) and the trigger is funtionable.
Moving the (selector) to [SEMI] , the (disconnector) is now out from under the (selector axle) and the trigger still works.
Now the Fubar . When I try to move the (selector) back to [AUTO] , the (disconnector and trigger) is in the way of the full movement of the (selector axle) going back to the [auto] position and jams the system so I have to remove the (dust cover) and use my fingers to push the (disconector and the trigger) back under the (selector axle). Is this normal ? am I being to anal and technical ?.
Maybe the (disconnector) is too short and should stay underneath the (selector axle) when in the [semi] position .
Exellent Hobby site you have here ! You the Man . Other than that there was the standard "tweaking" of some parts.
Would you ever consider making a full scale Gattling Gun from the civil war ! ??
Nah, you're right. It's a real flaw in the model. I made the parts bulkier than their real counterparts here, so there are some things that don't match up correctly. The disconnector is one of such pieces. A quick fix would be to disable the disconnector, but I can't make a real fix until I revisit the AK receiver for another iteration, and I can't reliably predict when that would be.
The disconnector should (ideally) pop up in semi position, to catch the hammer when the trigger remains in pulled state, but its shape should be smoother, I suppose, to prevent it from getting caught on the selector.
The Gatling Gun is a bit too daunting for me. I've added it to the request tracker, but in the forseeable future I'd like to focus on refining current models and addressing flaws like this one, before branching off into anything too ambitious.
1. Yes, the stock would be different. A proper folding stock may be too difficult, but fixed stock like pictured should be visually similar. The fixed stock would have a groove in each side, and this seems difficult to make without changing the inner supports, but the minimum is to at least make holes in the outer face and place a darker layer underneath, to give the illusion of grooves. Perhaps some lighter-color spots on the back and bottom edges of the grooves would enhance this apperance. The stock also has a sling swivel loop on the side, but, as I omitted the one on the wooden stock, it's pretty much up to you if you want to add it or not.
2. The handguard would need side bumps (which can be adapted from the V1's side bumps) and some ribs. It seems like the only difficulty here is getting them to look neat and straight.
3. The magazine would also need to be a bit straighter. (Most difficult part. To simplify it, I'd recommend looking at the V1 magazine and making a new one based on the same principle, just different shape. Just adjust the dimensions at the top and include the front and rear hooks from the V2 mag to make it fit properly in the magwell).
4. The gas port would be closer to vertical. (top is 47, bottom is 74)
hmm another question can it be modified to look like this one (top right or top left) screwfaceromeo.deviantart.com/… i also believe there are railed AKs in real life that look like it (excluding the magwell that is probably an AR one)
the way i see it that i'll borrow the handgurad (well some of it at least) from the AR and modify it to suite the purpose or heck i can scratch build a new handguard and modify the gas port and the stock (i may be too crazy but i think some adjustments to the AR stock should make it fit on this one)
Yeah, the AR stock should work. All you would really need to do make just the foremost inches of the AK stock and attach that, so you have a base to stick the buffer tube to. The only question that leaves is how to make it sturdy.
The AR handguard's internal supports are different, and it would extend farther to the sides. However, if you reduce the width of the side cores, it might work out. Overall it would require some trial and error, but it's possible.
For an easier time, there's always the possibility of taking a rail base from the AR handguard, reducing the length, and attaching it directly to a repainted AK handguard to make something like this.
The nice thing about top left is that the magazine is a 7.62 mag, so it would be easier to adapt. Just omit the ribs and recolor it. The one on the right would involve taking part of an AR magwell, and there's no need to go to all that trouble.
i don't really care much about internal support as i usually make the part from sturdy card so it would reinforce itself for instance i didn't use any internal support for the magwell or the buttplate of the AR just glued the part on card and that's it
to make the buffer tube sturdy i will insert a part of it into the body of the AK itself while reinforcing the buffer tube itself then reinforce the body with thick card and hope that it works
i was actually thinking this or rather this for a handguard though i will scratch build it (shouldn't be that hard it's mostly straight with no curves) and use your rails for the rails and thus it will be possible to use your accessories for the AR (specifically angled grip) to be mounted on them but still i'll have to modify the stock or even better use the stock from the AR and also modify the gas port and since the mag should be okay then there's no need to modify it (just trying to avoid a difficult part)
Almost done ! (told ya) it would take about 6 months to finish [ I have a day job ] and work on this 3-4 hours a night and throw 1/2 of it away when it don't turn out right "STAPLES STORE" LOVES ME RIGHT NOW FOR THOSE REPRINTS OF THE PAGES !.
So anyways , Before I start the Magazine Clip , I am going over what I started from the begining to make sure everything is correct and true.
I see on page 3 under Instructions [barrel ] there is a round thingy "BREECH" , I have not seem to find where it goes. Maybe it was from the 1st AK and not need for the AK V2 ?
Also , the Internals seem to bind. I have cut and glued everything to specs. I guess this for just for [show] and Im thinking out side the box way too far . ( maybe I need to finish the magazine clip and the rest to see the internals working properly.)
Will post photo's soon need 1 more month What a GREAT project ! TY !
The breech simply goes over the back end of the barrel, which should stick out slightly into the receiver. It's visible in the photo Construction 37. Sorry, I neglected to label it anywhere. It should fill the space between the receiver walls, and cover up the end of the barrel, which is likely deformed from the attachment process. It represents what would, in reality, be the thicker portion of the barrel around the chamber.
The internals should have a full range of motion (in the sense that they shouldn't get stuck), but the reason they don't replicate realistic movements is because I didn't figure out how to easily recreate the trigger and hammer springs. If you're interested in going to that level of detail, I suppose it's possible, but it was beyond what I was willing to do at the time.
Also note that as the inside of the receiver is simplified, the bolt doesn't really lock into place correctly. I was more concerned with completing it rather than getting the details functional, so yes, you could say those details are just for show.
The mag release, being very simple, works realistically, though.
A note on the magazine itself: the follower is distinct in this model, and although I ended up gluing it in place, it may be possible to run a spring between it and the floorplate. It's just that every method I tried either wasn't elastic enough or wasn't able to keep it level enough.
I myself have been working on the dust cover for over 3 weeks now . The Interior sections was the fun part not making those small curved [sides] not bend while gluing ! Must have gone thru 4 patterns each before I found the sollution.
Score all folds and cuts , then cut out pattern , fold all folds , ( I also use different size dowells , pvc pipe) to make the shape of the piece( to curve ) it and hold it with elastic bands for a few hours , then apply super glue to ONLY the small curved side (inside-middle) , not the [tabs or main body] , let sit... this will make the side more [stiff] and makes a better interior piece with out bending or crushing the tiny side piece of each interior piece.
I personly think this is the hardest part of this Model . Once you mastered this "Dust cover" and making sure its (straight and true) , the rest of this gun will be easy .
Remember , You can [stuff] your hand grip and wood stock with tissue paper and it makes a more of a solid piece instead of being hollow and when you hold it it feels more like a GUN
Sure. Just leave most of the moveable parts to move freely, with one notable exception:
The dust cover is held in place by the spring button, which moves in a groove on the rear trunnion, and is held rearward by the recoil spring. If you want it to stay in place, you'll have to put glue in that groove, then put the spring button in there, attach the dust cover, then somehow pull the spring button back. Once it dries, however, it will keep the dust cover on firmly enough. You won't be able to remove the dust cover or bolt carrier, but, fortunately, the charging handle can be used to move the bolt carrier forward and back.
Working on the hand grip now. HINT : stuff tissue paper in grip to make the grip more solid ! It works ! feels solid ! do this to the butt stock also. Hint : scrore all folds and cuts . when it comes to cutting ,a scored cut will be better to cut. The razor will stay straight , even in curves and not cut into your project .
Thanks for the 90-degree angle answer , as to the selector axles , I will use the originals for now. just getting to page 5 of the reciever , can wait to start the barell.
Is there a way to post photo's here ?
Hint # 4 ... When rolling paper to be a perfect circle , use [wooden dowels] . they come in all sizes for each circular pattern from axles to pins and barells . even get a nail to use for the small pins to roll .
Hi , sorry to spell your name wrong ! oops. as to the new design of the traingular internal guide rails .............. does the 90' angle go on top ? as to the selector axle , I will deal with it when I cross that bridge .
Hey bobrutgers Use Elmer's White glue ! I used crazy glue before , and it makes the paper thicker Use a toothpick and some glue on top of your hand that holds the item . when you hold the item , use the toothpick and use the glue on your hand to apply when needed [kinda makes a 3 hand].
TAKE your time ! , I just started last month , and I just got to page 4 !
Hi Hororginc ! Just 2 questions
1 as to the new design of the traingular internal guide rails .... does the 90" angle go on top ? 2 as to the selector axle , I noticed 1 was too short for the [selector switch] am I correct in this ? should I make 1 longer for the hole in the selector switch ? seems 1 is too short .
So far so good ! and Hint # 3 / use 400 sand paper on the model ! , makes better looking pieces ! and use a pencil and a matching magic marker too color in the raw edges of each piece .
Hi! This gun looks wonderful, so detailed! Now I finally have the time I need to make this gun. Only thing, I wanted to make it with different colors than the colors provided, but the process and the result of editing the plain white PNG files isn't pretty. Is there any chance you could provide the original SVGs?